Learn to Build A Winner (Cont'd)

Woodshop 101 (Continued)

7. Sample designs

This section is from my contribution to the 1993 W. D. Boyce Pow Wow Book. The designs are repeated here nearly verbatim. Be sure that you follow your local rules. Some of these designs may violate them.

Notes:

The notes are accessible as "hot spots" in the attached drawings.

Alternatively, you may wish to print the notes for easy reference, especially if your browser doesn't do "hot spots" well. Yes, get the notes! so I can print them.

[Fig 19. Block]

Fig 19. The Basic Block, as it comes out of the box. Current kits around here do not have the cut-out at the top. That doesn't bother me because I always cut it off anyway. You may wish to print or photo-copy this sheet to use in developing your own design.

[Fig 20. Design 1]

Fig 20. Design 1. The Rail. High performance, Easy to build.
The RAIL is capable of very high performance; its center of gravity may be located close to the rear axle. its aerodynamics are very good, and the wheels may be aligned safely and easily. Be sure that the area around the axle holes stays flat.

[Council Champ Oblique] Here are a couple pictures of the 2002 Prairielands (IL) Council Champion car built by Victor S. Top 4 cars in each pack qualified to the Council Races, and about 150 of those Cubs chose to compete. The car was undefeated, including 8 wins over the second place winner.

The car follows the main ideas of the Rail design. Note the bead of hot glue along the top rear of the car, which supplied the last 0.05 ounces needed to bring the car up to the 4.99 ounce target! The car has rather a lot of wood in it, but it was built by a Bear Den Cub Scout.

Particular attention was paid to wheel runout, axle and wheel treatment, and wheel alignment as described in this book.
[Council Champ Top]

The nose has a slight "barge" effect, but the starters operated the starting line sufficiently briskly so that the slightly raised nose was not a factor.

Aerodynamics was a minor consideration.

Note that the front wheels are backed up slightly from the front edge of the car. The was done to protect the wheels from whatever would be used to stop the car at the finish line. It also resulted in reducing the weight on the rear wheels slightly while shifting the location of the center of mass slightly toward the rear. The car showed no tendency to "come loose" on three different Piantedosi Oars, Inc. tracks.

[Fig 21. Design 2]

Fig 21. Design 2. The Wedge. High performance, Moderate difficulty
The WEDGE is capable of very high performance; its center of gravity may be located close to the rear axle, its aerodynamics are okay, and the wheels may be aligned safely and easily. Be sure that the area around the axle holes stays flat.

[Fig 22. Design 3]

Fig 22. Design 3. The Flat Egg. High performance, Difficult
The FLAT EGG (OVAL) is capable of very high performance; its center of gravity may be located close to the rear axle, its aerodynamics are good, and the wheels may be aligned safely. Be sure that the area around the axle holes stays flat.

[Fig 23. Design 4]

Fig 23. Design 4. The Rail, moved slots. Difficult
This RAIL complies with the more stringent rules used in some districts that require use of the original axle slots, but which allow wheelbase and axle location to be changed. THIS DESIGN IS POTENTIALLY CONTROVERSIAL. Check with your rules committee before committing too much time and effort. Ream at the top edge of the slot with a #43 drill (#44 for axles from "orange end" boxes) so that the nail "knows where to go". Shave some wood off the bottom to avoid disasterous "belly bumping" against the track. Be sure that the area around the axle holes stays flat.

[Fig 24. Design 5]

Fig 24. Design 5. The Rail, original slots. Easy
This RAIL complies with the very stringent rules used in some districts that require use of the original axle slots, that the wheelbase not be changed, and that the axle location not be changed. The opening ahead of the front axles is optional. I don't know which way is best. Ream at the top edge of the slot with a #43 drill (#44 for axles from "orange end" boxes) so that the nail "knows where to go". Shave some wood off the bottom to avoid disasterous "belly bumping" against the track. An advantageous variation, if your local rules permit, is to cut approximately 0.4" off the back and to glue a 0.4" bumper on the front. Be sure that the area around the axle holes stays flat.